Emperors in Disguise

Why Chinese tea drinkers say ‘thank you’ with their fingers

When eating dim sum in Chinatown, you might notice your fellow diners tapping three fingers on the table whenever a friend pours them a fresh cup of tea. It’s a gesture of thanks known as a finger kowtow – and its origin goes back to the 18th century, when a Chinese emperor decided to go for dim sum in disguise.

The emperor in question was the Qianlong Emperor - a mighty warrior and general who added millions of square miles to China with his military campaigns and ruled for 40 years. He also enjoyed popping out in commoners’ clothing to enjoy life’s simple pleasures without being recognised. One day, the Emperor and his companions went into a teahouse where, to remain anonymous, he took a turn at pouring tea for everyone on the table as good manners dictate.

His companions requested that they be allowed to kowtow - to drop to their knees and bow their heads to the ground - for this great honour. Rather than let them give his identity away, the Qianlong Emperor told them to tap their first three fingers on the table - with the middle finger representing their heads and the outer two their hands. Ever since, Chinese tea drinkers have used the Emperor’s gesture as an expression of gratitude to the friend who fills their teacups.

For extra dining points, by the way, it’s considered ultra-polite to offer to pour the first round.